Amsterdam Through Strangers’ Eyes - Part 3

From the Seattle Public Library blog ‘Shelf Talk‘:
Part 1: “Tour d’Amsterdam: Biking as a Tourist”
“Biking in Amsterdam is an experience that can be enjoyed by even novice cyclists. On almost all streets and roads, cyclists enjoy an exclusive wide path separated from motor vehicle traffic by a strip of ground, a ditch or high curb. [...]

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Just an Amsterdam native who won't take his city and its cycling extravaganza for granted anymore, thinking these posts might be clues to others, inspiration perhaps, if you will...

From the Seattle Public Library blog ‘Shelf Talk‘:

Part 1: “Tour d’Amsterdam: Biking as a Tourist”

“Biking in Amsterdam is an experience that can be enjoyed by even novice cyclists. On almost all streets and roads, cyclists enjoy an exclusive wide path separated from motor vehicle traffic by a strip of ground, a ditch or high curb. Riders have the right of way over pedestrians (a practice that takes time getting used to), and even have the prerogative to run red lights! It’s remarkable to be part of a populated community where a bicycle, as a mode of transportation, is only second to the popular and efficient train system that most of Europe enjoys.

As a flight attendant, I get to visit Amsterdam several times a year. While walking proves to be the best way of becoming familiar with a city, once you’re comfortable with the layout, renting a bike allows you to be more adventuresome within and outside the city limits. There are numerous bike rental shops in the city, just outside Central Station (the main train station) and even in smaller outlying towns. Bikes can be rented for a few hours or weekly.

Here are a few tips I’ve learned (some the hard way): stay on the right side of the street in the bike path, allow faster riders to pass you on the left and, while in the city, ride at a good clip. Riding on the wrong side of the street or trying to window shop in the bike path is not tolerated by the Dutch, who ride with a purpose. On my first ride into the city, cyclists were waving at me, shouting at me and ringing their bike bells. I waved back, “Hello, hello!,” thinking to myself, “What a friendly group of people!” Only after talking to a hotel staff member later that evening - after he quit laughing - did I find out I was lucky no one verbally abused me (that I know of). Apparently, the Dutch cyclists were yelling that I was on the wrong side of the bike path: “Get out! Get out!”

It also didn’t take long for me to discover cyclists could run red lights. Like an obedient rider, I stopped at a red light only to notice immediately that I was the only one standing there. My fellow cyclists left me in the dust - they don’t stop for anyone or anything, except a tram or train. When passing or alerting another rider or pedestrian, use the bell which is equipped on all bikes. If you want stop somewhere, slow down, put your left hand out and down, quickly pick up the bike and step up on the sidewalk. Don’t ever ride your bike on the sidewalk: walk it. Remember, cycling in the city limits is a mode of transportation, not a leisure sport.”

Part 2: “Tour d’Amsterdam, part 2″

“In my previous blog entry, Tour de Amsterdam, I mentioned rules learned the hard way while riding a bike in downtown Amsterdam. Recall that biking is a mode of transportation and not the competitive leisure sport as viewed by most Seattlites. The topography of Amsterdam is wonderfully flat!

Riding for hours is possible with perhaps the only side-effect of returning to your hotel a bit sore in the saddle. So don’t shy away from renting a bike because you don’t have the outfit, helmet or shoes; it’s a common sight to see business men dressed in suits chatting on their cell phones and farmers in overalls wearing clogs on the bike paths. Also, don’t worry about getting lost; along with designated bike paths signs (fietspaden), there are arrow street signs directing you to areas within the city and back to Central Station. Just remember the canals run around the city in a horseshoe pattern.

Now, my favorite bike ride starting from Central Station, the focal point of the city located on the major waterway canal, Het Ij. Vondelpark is Amsterdam’s central and most popular public park. It is home to joggers, family picnics, cyclists, strollers, casual soccer players, dogs chasing tennis balls, and tender young lovers embracing while lying on the manicured lawns. In the summer, evening concerts are performed by local musicians.

With your back to the station, stay to right toward the Jordaan neighborhood, take a left but stay on the right side of Prinsegracht (gracht=canal), heading south. This ride will keep you away from the central and hectic “walking street” where pedestrians crowd to shop arm and arm and sample the popular fries served with garlic-lemon mayonnaise. You’ll be riding along side canals, over cobblestones and over small bridges; bikes will be everywhere, some of which have been locked on the railings in pantomime positions for years. Stop for a cup of coffee, a fabulous pastry or glass of Dutch beer in one of the many cafes.

This scenic route will take you past the Anne Frankhuis (huis=house) which will on the opposite side of the canal; you can stop there on your return ride. About a mile a half on Prinsegracht, take a right on Leidsegracht and where it runs into the main canal, Singelgracht, ride left onto Leisekade (kade=quay) bringing you to a bridge where to the north the street is Leidestraat (straat=street) and to the south, it’s Vondelstraat. Within a matter of minutes, Vondelpark will be in sight. The main entrance is on the north side on Huygenstraat but there are smaller accesses to the neighborhood around the park.

Once inside Vondelpark, ride the bike path which is shared with pedestrians; get a feel for the park. Like Central Park in New York, it’s an oasis in a fast-paced metropolitan city - an oasis where instantly you can feel tension drop from your shoulders. It’s a sight filled with visual and auditory pleasure. Do like me: park your bike, sit on a bench and open up that book from your backpack. Or people watch. It’s a favorite pastime in Europe and the Dutch are a visual delight; they are friendly, intelligent and extremely clever. I never tire of the Dutch or of my favorite oasis in downtown Amsterdam, Vondelpark.”

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2 Comments

  1. Wilma added these cyclelicious words on October 7, 2008 | Permalink

    Seattle Public Library, like Amsterdam has an amazing new Downtown Main Branch (Centrale) Seattle’s is built on a very steep hill, and the bottom of the building is smaller than the top. It was designed by Rem Koolhaas, so there’s another Dutch connection! You can see some pictures of it here:
    http://www.arcspace.com/architects/koolhaas/Seattle/

    Thanks for sharing this post; I did not know about this blog!

  2. Amsterdamize added these cyclelicious words on October 8, 2008 | Permalink

    Great stuff, huh? You’ve then probably seen how to point to all their (bike) travel books on that blog.

    Thanks for the info, didn’t know and hadn’t seen the building. I love Rem Koolhaas’ architecture, it’s very smart. He’s also done amazing things in NYC.

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